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VACATION IN GREECE

Monday 14th May 2001

Gloomy skies greeted us this morning. We had a short time to window-shop after breakfast before the bus loaded. Lots of shops with beautiful clothes at reasonable prices for the quality. We drove off towards Volos in persistent drizzle, and had an uneventful run down the motorway. There are toll plazas on the motorways, and a lot of new work being done to extend the motorway system -- probably before the 2004 games. In Volos, we parked down on the waterfront for 30 minutes; just enough time for us to get a coffee -- or in my case to find an internet cafe. No change to my site, so I don't know if Don has been getting the previous emails.

Back on the road again, and a long climb into the hills to go through the Thermopylae Pass, heading south-west for Delphi. We passed by whole mountains of bauxite -- this is the mineral which is refined into aluminium. There were tunnel mouths here and there, and a lot of open-cast mines as well. The steep hillsides were streaked with access roads zig-zagging down to the main road. Delphi is the place where ancient Greeks came to consult the Oracle. Our guide told us that even the poor might come -- perhaps once in a lifetime to ask a question. The priestess sat beside a vent which had gases issuing from it and was asked the question. In her gas-induced trance, she would give some wierd answer which would be interpreted by the other priestesses. This was also rather obscure, and would require much thought to find how it applied to your question. Sounds a bit like the IRD, doesn't it.

Delphi is a little town high in the hills (540 metres) with two parallel, narrow streets of shops -- all catering to the tourist trade. This is a Mecca for tourists, and the huge tour buses cause problems; we blocked the street for ten minutes while we got off and got the baggage out. We had a walk up and down the streets before dinner. No army tonight, just our party.

Tuesday, 15th May, 2001

A crisp, clear morning in Delphi at 6.45 am. After breakfast, we boarded the coach for a short run down the road to the Museum. Here I took a group photo before we went into the Museum and had the displays explained to us by Nik the guide. The ruins started 50 metres higher; we saw where the pilgrims stopped at shops to purchase offerings to Apollo before ascending to the temple.

The Temple of Apollo still has several columns standing, in spite of earthquakes, and has the remains of three layers of marble floor. The Oracle for the day was downstairs in a dark room. Contrary to my previous idea, the priestess was hyped up on laurel leaves and other vegetation. A priest bought down the question and took up the answer, which he gave in the form of a riddle or other obscure answer. I was rather suspicious about what happened when the Oracle was on her toilet break -- did the priest just go downstairs, wait a few minutes and come back with a stock answer?

Above the temple is an ampitheatre which held 5000 people. Then there was a long grind up paths and steps to the Stadium where athletic contests were held. This was at 600 metres; we had come up from 515 metres at the bus.

The morning sun had been shining brightly, and we were all hot and flustered getting back to the bus to move on to our next stop. This was at Arahova, a village even higher up than Delphi, where we stopped for lunch. Joan ordered tomato salad and fried potatoes. and I ordered sausage. These proved to be about 15 cm long and as thick as my finger -- and very difficult to cut and chew. But the flavour was worth the effort, and I managed to get through most of them. I suspect they were smoked and dried, a bit like the beer sticks we get at home.

Back in the bus for the run to Athens, driving along the motorway past small towns and villages. But there was one more surprise to come: an arrangement had been made by cellphone for us to call in to a small village not far from Athens, where the locals had a small museum of militaria. The bus was met off the motorway by a car, which led us through very narrow lanes until we couldn't go any further. We then walked about 300 metres to the building, where we were received by local dignitaries. There was a boy and girl in authentic national dress, which drew the lenses of all the cameras. We were taken inside, and viewed the interior; there were many painted portraits of national heroes and locals who had been killed in the war. These were painted by a local artist, in folk art style. There was also a portrait of Colonel Freyberg (who was in command of the NZ forces in Greece and Crete).

Outside again, there were tables set up, with soft drink and cookies. The local mayor had a striking face, weatherbeaten wrinkles and half-beard -- I managed to get a couple of good shots of him for future use as a portrait. There was a presentation of a NZ Returned Services Association banner for their museum.

Back in the bus for the last run to Athens; we are back in the Dorian Hotel, and the second party will be joining us tomorrow morning.

Wednesday 16th May, 2001

Out after breakfast to find the laundry -- not a lot of them in Athens as it happens. The lady gave us a time to be back, and we set of on my errand -- which was to try and find a photo or electronics shop that would take my compact flash chip (which was full of images) and transfer them to a CDRom. I tried at least a dozen shops, and in each one was met with a blank stare -- as if the idea was totally unknown. Finally, a photographic shop sent me down a long street on what proved to be a wild goose chase. I did see a photo processing shop which had a Kodak Digital Processing banner, went in, and was told the machine was out of order. But I don't think they really understood what I wanted. It would have been nice to be able to wipe the chip redy for more images, but Ive now edited it and made room for about 18 more basic-quality shots.

This leads me to comment just how advanced we are in NZ. For instance, I have only seen two or three signs and billboards which have a Web address displayed. There seems to be little penetration of home Internet connection, which might explain it -- why have a website when your Greek customers can't look at it? There are plenty of shops with the latest electronic gear for sale; some of them specialise in software and/or books.

Anyway, my search was fruitless, so we trudged back to the hotel and collapsed on the beds, after having walked about two hours in hot sun. A get-together at the rooftop bar this evening to meet the second group, and a dinner. We have to be up and away early tomorrow for Crete -- it was supposed to be later in the morning, but apparently there is talk of some strike so we go out to the airport early.

Thursday 17th May 2001

We were told last night that, due to a general strike, the travel people had re-scheduled our flight to Crete, and we had to be ready to go at 8.30 am. So it was bags out and down to the foyer at 8 am. We travelled by bus to the airport; no sign of local buses but masses of cars on the road. Possibly self-employed people -- or perhaps the striking workers heading for the beach . We checked in at the airport and had a welcome cup of coffee before going through the departure lounge. A routine flight on Aegean Airways - a privately owned airline, so wasn't affected by the strike.

Our flight was only 40 minutes or so, and the hostesses had to scurry to serve a snack meal. Our hotel is not in the central part of the city, but we found it only a 10-minute walk to the start of the main shopping area. The tourist part wasn't affected by the strike, and we found several narrow streets filled with small shops and stalls, all selling souvenirs.

The guide book mentions that leather is a Chania speciality, so I might buy another belt. In the course of wandering through these little streets, I was getting my camera set for a shot when a Greek Orthodox priest suddenly came round the corner. I had the camera up in a moment and got the shot -- he was a wonderful subject with wrinkled face and a gorgeous beard. Back to the hotel for a shower, dinner and bed.

Friday 18th May 2001

This is our first big ceremonial day. We were bused through Chania to the waterfront and there was an hour's wait while more buses arrived and disgorged other veterans' groups -- British and Australian -- and various armed forces representatives, including New Zealand. A Greek Army band turned up; the troops lined up, and top brass arrived in flash cars. We were taken round the corner of the old fort walls to where four flagpoles had been set up. When all the various generals and ambassadors were lined up, there was a flag-raising ceremony with the various National Anthems played. Curiously, there was only a few voices singing Advance Australia Fair; more for God Save the Queen, but when the time came to play God Defend New Zealand, the volume tripled as all the Kiwis sang lustily.

Then the dignitaries walked round the wall to the main entrance of the Maritime Museum and vanished upstairs to open some exhibition or other, while we trooped along in the rear. We managed to get a look at the interior displays on the ground floor, but only the exalted got upstairs.

Suddenly, our party was quickly rounded up and urged back into the buses. We had been invited to attend the Australian ceremony at their cemetery at Retimo, about 50 minutes drive along the coast to the east. We were preceded by a policeman on a motorcycle, who cleared traffic out of our way with ruthless efficiency. This was scheduled at noon; we arrived at 12.10 pm to find it was all over. Not to waste the moment, it was quickly decided to go ahead with a NZ ceremony. An honour guard formed up, wreaths were laid by the veterans, the Last Post was sounded by a NZ Army trumpeter, and the ceremony concluded.

We bused back to Chania and our hotel -- once more with escort -- and a cool-down in the air conditioning of our rooms. Joan and I walked down to the harbour and had a delicious ham and cheese omelette, as we realised that the evening ceremony was going to delay dinner past the scheduled 9 pm. The instructions were for formal gear, so we all appeared at 6.15 pm in suits and ties; those with medals were wearing them. The bus took us along the coast a short way to Galatas village, which had played a prominent part in 1941. Again, we waited... and waited... and various buses arrived to disgorge more veterans, band, soldiers, etc etc. Finally, about 7.30 pm, the diplomats, Helen Clark, Aussie representative and loads of armed forces top brass arrived and were greeted by a fanfare tune from the band and arms presented by the various troops. Helen Clark ( NZ Prime Minister) was accompanied by an honour guard of Maori warriors in full face makeup and wielding taiaha (long staff) to great effect in clearing the way. One TV cameraman, obviously not briefed about the perils of standing ground in the face of an attack, actually advanced right up to the leader whose taiaha missed him by a whisker. He still wouldn't give way. so the warrior went right up to the camera and head-butted straight into the lens front. The cameraman lost no time in retreating, and it was noticeable that they all gave the Maori a wide berth thereafter.

By this time, there would have been at least a thousand people jammed into the small square. There was supposed to be a tree-planting ceremony as well as wreath-laying, but of course we saw not a thing. One would have thought that at least some of us would have been placed in some proximity to the official events, but rank hath its privileges and these people had all the clout.

So we stood for two hours, while all the dignitaries arrived and departed. Finally our buses showed up and we sank thankfully into seats. Joan and I certainly felt it, but the 'oldies' were much more fatigued. Anyway, we were conveyed to a flash hotel, where tables had been laid for the dinner. A rough calculation put it at 500 guests. They took ages to get the dinner under way - we started to eat a plate of dips and bread rolls while we waited, and drank Greek wine. At 10.30 pm we had pastries; at 10.45 pm we got a plate of assorted meats; at 11.15 pm we had salad; at 11.30 we had roast pork and potatoes. Not long after that, our tour guide came up to see if we wanted to get back to the hotel -- offer enthusiastically received. We were back into the hotel at 12.10 am.

Saturday 19th May 2001

This morning Joan's peak flow was down and she wasn't up to a hard day in the sun, so we had a quiet day while the party went off for the day's official duties. We walked quietly down town to get some food for lunch, returned to the hotel, and had a real rest during the afternoon.

The party had a strenuous, hot day, and it was as well that we didn't go out. We had dinner in the hotel, as did several of the party who were feeling too tired to go out to the evening function.

Sunday, 20th May 2001

Joan much better this morning and peak flow reading back towards normal. We were bused to Rethymno (Retimo), about one hour's drive, to the Police Cadet School for more ceremonies. These are now becoming a familiar pattern. First, we get off the bus and are shepherded into our allotted place; the veterans are taken to one side to join the parade. The band does its thing, and the vets parade a short way before being sent over to seats. More band fanfares as the important guests arrive, at 15 minute intervals. We were sitting in shade in 36 degC heat; we were looked after by some ladies of our own Air Force, bringing us water. Finally the presentation ceremonies started -- the veterans were presented with a medal and certificate each from the Greek Governmant. We were then moved to the luncheon area and seated at long tables. There would have been several hundred people there.

Finally we started getting our luncheon -- in stages as usual -- the first dish was bread chunks with a tomato puree on top and drenched with olive oil. I am getting rather attached to bread and olive oil instead of butter -- but the oil hs to be of good quality. Then there were crepes with cheese and ham inside, followed by roast pork and a rice pilaff and Greek salad. Bowls of cherries and strawberries followed. We had been serenaded by a man playing a keyboard; now he was replaced by a trio of Greek music players. Then we had a band of young Greek dancers in costume who performed local dances with great expertise. We were then rounded up to return in the buses to our hotels.

An hour to freshen up and change into collar and tie for the afternoon tea with the Prime Minister. The reception was at another hotel, and we were given drinks, then a proper afternoon tea. Joan especially appreciated a freshly-brewed teapot, instead of tea bag in the cup with barely-hot water. Helen Clark circulated round all the tour people and shook hands with most. All the services personnel were staying in the hotel, and we were able to talk to all sorts of interesting army, navy and airforce people.

Back in the bus and on to Maleme airport, which was the crucial area in the 1941 invasion. Another memorial had been set up for dedication -- this time not just a concrete column, but pieces of aircraft and propellors. The usual parade of top brass, Prime Minister, ambassadors etc were once more bugled into the memorial area. A bevy of Greek Orthodox priests of various ranks formed up (I think the most senior was either a bishop or archbishop -- he had a sort of veil on his head, while lower ranks have a tubular hat with a flat overhanging lid). Just as the ceremony was about to start, we were called away from our positions and moved some distance to where chairs had been set up, facing the old runway and the sea. Joan & I and others in the party managed to score seats on a portable sort of granstand. Behind us, the ceremony drew to a close, and the top brass trooped down to their front seats.

Then the evening's entertainment started with three Greek Air Force jet fighters zipping across the aerodrome at high speed, accompanied by a couple of serious ground explosions over towards the sea. These were to represent bombs being dropped. A commentary in Greek and English went on; this was very dramatic with appropriate background music.

Three old prop-driven aircraft flew over; more simulated bombs, then a Hercules appeared and started dropping sticks of parachutists. It circled and dropped more, several times. Meanwhile the parachutists had encountered the valiant Greek defenders hidden in the undergrowth to the side of the runway -- with great pantomime and flourishing of knives.

A replica village on the far side of the runway was set alight amid explosions from more bombs. Then more parachutes appeared, the soldiers grouped, and advanced on the official party. They were suddenly surrounded by a ring of Greek children in national costume, who danced aound them to symbolise the overcoming of war by peace. Another flypast by the three jets, and the dropping of a paraglider team concluded the display.

We all trooped over to the runway edge for the march-past. All the veterans paraded, and marched past to great cheers from the crowd; then the Greek army detachment brought up the rear. Finally, there was a drive-past from the restored army vehicle club of Greece. There was an amazing assortment of WW II vehicles of various sorts, from motorcycles, trucks, jeeps, desert wagons, to a restored ambulance. We walked back to the buses in the semi-dark, and were taken to a large hotel for our last big reception. There would be about 1200 people seated at tables; we were catered for at two long buffets which got people fed in remarkably quick time. Even so, it was after midnight when we returned to our hotel, exhausted after a very long day.